At midday people have almuerzo, a large meal that usually begins with soup, followed by meat, rice, vegetables and salad. Popular entrées include arroz con pollo chapina, a chicken-rice dish flavoured with onion, garlic, tomatoes, peppers and seasonal vegetables. Jocon is chicken in a green sauce made from pepitoria (squash seeds), chilies, tomatillos, scallions, sesame seeds and cilantro. Tamales, bits of chicken, pork, corn paste or potatoes steamed in banana leaves, are also common. Locally grown vegetables such as tomatoes, hot chilies and peppers are favourite accompaniments. About 7:00 or 8:00 p.m. people have a light meal, which might contain beans, sweet breads, or leftovers from the midday meal.

In the countryside, people eat more frequently. They begin the day with coffee, black beans and tortillas, then enjoy a snack about 10:00 a.m. After the large midday meal, they often have a snack of coffee and a sweet pastry. More beans and tortillas are available for evening eating, perhaps with scrambled eggs and onion.

Sweets or fruit often end the midday and evening meals. Rice cakes, honey crisps, sugared figs, bunuelos (fried dumplings with honey) and cinnamon custards are popular. Guatemalans also enjoy many varieties of tropical fruit, including sweet pink mameys, purple pitahayas, mangoes and jocotes. Plantains are eaten with chocolate sauce, honey-cinnamon syrups, or with orange juice and whipped cream. Fruit juice is a popular drink. Guatemala also has many locally made alcoholic drinks, such as beer, rum and wine. Rompopo is a punch made from milk, egg yolks and rum.

Black beans and maize, which are usually grown on family land, are the main staples of the rural indigenas and ladino diet. Both are prepared in many ways. Beans are served in soup, as a fried-bean paste, cooked with rice or mixed in stews. Corn is finely ground into cornmeal, mixed with lime and grilled to make tortillas, the best of which are cooked in the traditional way, on a comale (metal sheet) placed over a fire.

Champurrado (Chocolate Coffee)

Ingredients 4 squares unsweetened chocolate 240 ml sugar 2 tbsp cornstarch 960 ml black coffee 2 tbsp ground cinnamon 1 large piece vanilla bean pinch of salt 1.4 L hot milk Ground cinnamon for garnish Preparation In a double boiler over low heat, melt the chocolate in a little water. Combine the sugar and cornstarch and add to the chocolate, mixing well. Add the coffee, stir well and heat for 10 minutes. Add the cinnamon, vanilla, salt and milk, and cook over medium heat for 35 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the vanilla bean and serve in cups, sprinkled with cinnamon. Makes 8 to 10 servings.